Diamond engagement rings by Veale Fine Jewellery

The Diamond Guide

Choosing a diamond for your engagement ring can feel daunting. Jewellers talk about cut, clarity, colour and carat weight — but how do you know what they mean and why they matter?

The truth is, they don’t all matter equally. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the ‘4Cs’ that define a diamond’s quality and help you understand what truly makes a difference to a stone’s beauty. Our aim is to help you choose a diamond with confidence, clarity and intention.

How to Choose a Diamond

The 4Cs are not a definitive checklist

The 4Cs — cut, colour, clarity and carat weight — are the global standard for assessing diamond quality. Together they influence a diamond’s appearance, character and ultimately, its value.

While they provide a helpful framework, they are not a definitive checklist for choosing the perfect diamond — and they do not all carry equal weight.

In our experience, cut is the most important. A beautifully cut diamond reflects light with life and brilliance, while a poorly cut stone appears flat, regardless of its colour, clarity and carat weight. Additionally, differences between some clarity and colour grades are invisible to the naked eye. So selecting a diamond within a grade boundary is sensible, but higher grades do not always offer additional visible beauty.

A diamond’s shape – while not a quality factor – also plays a hugely important role in defining the overall look and style of a piece.

Diamond quality guide graphics

Choosing the Right Diamond Shape

A diamond’s shape is its overall outline and geometric form. Deciding on a shape is key to defining the style and overall look of your engagement ring. Shape is about aesthetic, and shouldn’t be confused with cut, a 4C.

While there are many diamond shapes, including distinctive options such as heart-shaped diamonds, the most popular choices for engagement rings are outlined below. A diamond’s shape can influence how large it appears. Elongated shapes such as oval cut and marquise cut diamonds, for example, can look bigger than round brilliant cut diamonds of the same carat weight.

Round brilliant cut diamond

The Round Brilliant Cut

The most popular diamond shape, known for exceptional sparkle and timeless appeal. Its balanced proportions suit both classic and contemporary engagement ring designs.

Oval cut diamond

The Oval Cut

Offers the brilliance of a round diamond with a more elongated silhouette. This can make the diamond feel larger than the equivalently sized round diamond, while feeling both timeless and modern.

Cushion cut diamond

The Cushion Cut

With soft edges and a romantic pillow-like shape, this shape offers excellent fire and sparkle. With vintage character, it has a soft, luxurious feel.

Emerald cut diamond

The Emerald Cut

Admired for its clean lines and hall-of-mirrors effect, this shape creates flashes of light rather than intense sparkle. It’s a sophisticated stone that highlights clarity and craftsmanship beautifully.

Marquise cut diamond

The Marquise Cut

With its elongated silhouette and pointed ends, this distinctive choice is an elegant and striking look that maximises visual size on the finger. It has a refined, dramatic feel.

Pear cut diamond

The Pear Cut

The brilliance of a round cut and the elegance of a marquise combine to form a distinctive teardrop silhouette. This shape’s asymmetric form creates a graceful impact.

Understanding the 4Cs of Diamond Quality

Diamond Cut

Cut refers to how well a diamond has been proportioned and polished from its rough form. These factors influence how light travels through the diamond and ultimately how much it sparkles. When assessing cut, we consider a diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish, as well as its brilliance, fire and scintillation.

Diamond cut is graded on a scale from Excellent to Poor. A poorly cut diamond will not reflect light effectively and can appear flat or lacking in life. In contrast, an Excellent Cut diamond is carefully proportioned and polished to maximise brilliance, fire and sparkle.

Excellent cut diamond light reflection diagram

Excellent Cut

Light is reflected and returned consistently throughout the diamond.

Very good cut diamond light reflection diagram

Very Good Cut

Most light is reflected back through the diamond.

Good cut diamond light reflection diagram

Good Cut

More light escapes from the diamond, reducing its brightness.

Diamond Carat Weight

A carat is the unit used to measure a diamond’s weight. It’s important to remember that carat weight is not the same as a diamond’s visible size. Two diamonds of the same carat weight can appear very different in size depending on their proportions and cut. For example, a shallower diamond with a larger surface area may appear bigger than a deeper-cut diamond that carries more weight beneath the surface.

Carat weight is often the first characteristic people focus on but it is essential to think about this alongside the other 4Cs. A high-carat diamond with poor cut, colour or clarity will not have the same brilliance and overall presence as a smaller diamond of exceptional quality.

Diamond carat size comparison chart

Diamond Colour

Ironically, a diamond’s colour is measured according to how ‘colourless’ it is. Diamonds with the least noticeable yellow tint are considered more desirable. Diamonds with a hint of colour fall below I in the grading scale. Below M there is an increasingly yellow tinge. However, after Z, diamonds are classed as natural fancy coloured diamonds – these are considered exceptional, such as a fancy yellow, pink or blue diamonds.

Colourless diamond colour grades D to F

Colourless, D – F

Exceptionally white in appearance with no noticeable warmth.

Near colourless diamond colour grades G to H

Near Colourless, G – H

Appearing bright and white with only very subtle warmth.

Faint diamond colour grade I and above

Faint, I+

A softer white tone with faint warmth visible in some lighting.

Diamond Clarity

Diamond clarity is often the final 4C to consider. Clarity refers to whether a diamond contains any internal inclusions or external blemishes that interrupt its transparency and return of light.

Diamonds with the highest clarity are Flawless (FL). After this, clarity progresses through a scale of: Internally Flawless (IF), Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2), Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) and finally Included (I1, I2 and I3). Diamonds with lower clarity can appear cloudy. However many minor inclusions are often invisible to the naked eye. Rather than being viewed as imperfections, these can be seen as part of a diamond’s unique natural character.

VVS clarity diamond diagram

VVS+ Clarity

Extremely high clarity with very minimal internal characteristics visible only under magnification.

VS clarity diamond diagram

VS1 & VS2 Clarity

Small internal characteristics visible under magnification but typically not noticeable to the naked eye.

SI clarity diamond diagram

SI1 & SI2 Clarity

More noticeable internal characteristics, sometimes visible to the naked eye depending on the diamond.

Veale Fine Jewellery logo stamp

Diamond Certification

Diamond certification is the independent assessment of a diamond’s quality and characteristics, confirming its cut, colour, clarity and carat weight. This allows diamonds to be compared accurately and jewellers and customers can be absolutely sure of what they are buying.

We work with GIA certified diamonds – the most stringent diamond grading laboratory worldwide that established the 4Cs grading system. We buy our GIA certified diamonds from a longstanding, trusted supplier, who sources their stock through partners who prioritise responsible sourcing and transparency. All our diamonds comply with the Kimberley Process, which ensures ethical working practices.

Learn more about GIA diamond grading and certification standards through the official GIA guide: GIA Diamond Grading Scales

Buying an Engagement Ring

Explore what to consider when moving from consideration to feeling confident in your design decisions and asking those all-important four words – ‘will you marry me?’

Different setting styles

Explore how diamonds look when they are set into metal in different ways.

Ready to create your dream jewellery?

Join us at our Hertfordshire studio or one of London’s Soho House clubs

Veale Fine Jewellery
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